HomeBall ReviewsThe Roto Grip Wrecker Series

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The Roto Grip Wrecker Series — 4 Comments

  1. My pro shop recommended to remove the shine from my wreck-em due to the oil pattern.I use a 500 grit Abralon pad every other week after I finish bowling.After each session I use Storm Reacta Shine.What is your opinion?
    If I wanted to return to the gloss the ball had when I received it what do you recommend? Other than that the ball reacts great to the oil pattern and my scores have improved.

    • Hi Marty,
      I found my Wreck-em worked much better with the dull surface. I use wet/dry sandpaper(it’s cheaper!), and get 4 uses when I tear the paper in half twice(quartered). I fold the quarter in half and do 4 turns(15 seconds each) on my spinner, dipping the paper in water and wet sand the ball with light to med pressure maybe after 15-30 games(or after 10 games if necessary). I use the top of the paper folded and turn it to the bottom on the next turn.Then I flip the folded quarter over and use the fresh side for the last two turns. The idea is to have fresh grit on each turn, then I know exactly what I am getting in #grit. I only use enough pressure to get the job done.
      Depending on lane conditions, It could be 1000 grit, to 2000 grit or anywhere in between that I get the best results. That took that snap out and made the ball more controllable for me. I don’t use the Reacta shine,partly because my surface is not as aggressive as 500grit, and it would be(kinda mostly) defeating the purpose of dulling the surface. But, yes that is another option and your choice! And it is a factory method as well.
      The problem I personally have with the Abralon pads is #they are expensive, and #after you use them once, you don’t know for sure what grit you are getting? It may be 500, 800 or 1000, depending how worn the pad is. That’s me, and just my opinion.
      If I want to return the shine, then I follow what the factory recommends for resurface. (I use 4 turns, not 6) and if the surface is being done regularly with 500, then I use just the last two steps..4 turns with 1000 grit then 4 at 1500 or 2000, whatever grit I want the final finish to be, then 4 turns of polish with Ebonite factory finish polish.Some use Finesse polish.It’s all a matter of what you prefer to use. Mostly, I don’t use the polish step, just use it dull.
      I read in factory specs that the 500 grit is to remove scratches and round up the ball. So, that step is done as required if necessary like a complete refinish after 90-100 games.I rarely do a complete refinish, maybe after 200-300 games, or an entire season.By then I am looking at the latest balls again.
      So, that being said, if your ball is working well, then don’t change a thing!
      I personally don’t like to take any more surface off these newer balls, than I absolutely have too! But, it needs touched up more often when I do that! (I hope that makes sense) and others have and will continue to disagree, but that is my choice, not theirs! Opinions are like butt-holes, everyone has one! LOL Hope that helps, and good luck!
      Chas

  2. Thanks for the super in depth review.
    Just wondering if these balls come in different weights and if so how do you find the weights change the ball action?
    I haven’t ever owned my own ball but I am thinking it is something I would like to get rather than using the lane balls as I start to bowl more often.

    • Hi Chris,
      The balls come in different weights. The high performance balls are usually offered in 10 or 12 lbs up to 16lbs. They offer lighter balls as well for kids in 6 to 8 lbs. The lighter the ball the less they carry. The pin weight causes the lighter balls to deflect more and reduces the impact on the pins. Simply, the lighter balls don’t cause the pin to move as far as say a 16 lb ball would.When you get your own ball and shoes, your scores will improve as well. Good luck on your bowling!
      Chas

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